All posts by Jon

Trying to catch up

We’re in Broome, WA now, way ahead of where we are on the blog. It’s my turn to try to catch us up.

The last post left us in Ceduna, South Australia, about to cross the Nullabor Plain and make our way into Western Australia.  We decided to spend two nights while crossing to allow us to stop whenever and still not drive in the dark.  You don’t want to drive in the dark in rural Australia because sooner or later you will hit a kangaroo (or a camel, emu, cow, wombat, etc.) and have a bad time.

Watch out for wildlife

We set our first stop to be in Eucla, WA, which is 492km from Ceduna.  We stopped at a few view points along the way to take in the Bunda Cliffs and to break up the drive. There were a handful of flies at each stop that incited a bit of fly rage. Little did we know we had no idea what fly rage was just yet.

The Bunda Cliffs along the Nullabor.
More cliffs

At the SA/WA border we got a picture of the “Big Roo” and one of the holes of the “Nullabor Links” – a golf course that spans 1,365km.  I thought about playing, but decided against it since the last three holes were north of the route we were planning on taking and you know, snakes.

Big Roo, with Sara as a joey.
Tee box of a hole on the rugged Nullabor Links course or at least that’s what the snakes want you to think.

We made it to Eucla fairly early, but a bit later than we estimated since we learned it was in a weird timezone (UTC +8:45) and not Perth/Western Australia time (UTC +8).  We had planned to use the pool only to find out it was closed. So after setting up camp in the most wind protected place we could find, we made dinner and turned in fairly early.

Camp in Eucla

The next morning we skipped the pay showers ($3 for 5 minutes!), fueled up by the “big whale”  and got on the road with a plan to make it to Balladonia (another 492km day).  The stretch of highway from Caiguna to Balladonia is the “Longest Straight Road” in Australia which seemed hilarious after a whole lot of long straight roads.

Big whale!
Woo, no turning for over an hour!

We got to Balladonia quite early (~1pm) and it was really hot, and the only thing in there is the roadhouse / caravan park.  We couldn’t think of what we’d do with all that free time, so we decided to keep going.  I had read about a small community run caravan park in Salmon Gums, WA so we decided that would be our target – a further 316km.  We stopped at an underwhelming viewpoint in Norseman, WA (which is considered the end of the “Nullabor” drive). An hour more found us at the caravan park (only $10 for an unpowered  tent site!) in Salmon Gums.  We set up camp, had dinner and then set out to the local hotel to have a beer.

Camp in Salmon Gums

Given the extra ground we covered, we only had an hour of driving left to get to our next stop, which was Esperance.  We planned to stay two nights there and given our string of tent sleeping and the forecast rain, we opted for two nights in a hotel.  We got there before noon, and did a quick loop of a tourist drive to kill time before check-in.  We were not disappointed – except for “Pink Lake” which hasn’t been pink for over 10 years but they haven’t bothered to rename it.

Esperance views
More Esperance views

The next day we went for a run and then I played golf while Sara walked around town.  After that we didn’t do much as it was raining most of the day, so we just enjoyed our time in a non-tent structure.

Our next stop was Albany – about 5 hours away, but first we traveled the opposite direction to check out a nearby national park, Cape Le Grande, where roos sometimes lounge on the beach. The weather was pretty iffy, but we went for it anyway.  Sadly no roos, but the beach (Lucky Bay) was beautiful even in the misty rain.

No roos, no sun, but still pretty

I had to drive the whole day because something was wrong with our seat and it would not go far enough forward for Sara.

In Albany we stayed at a caravan park that was right on the water.

View from the tent in Albany

There was a thunderstorm the first night followed by some ridiculous winds that made sleeping in a tent quite challenging. After having our coffee and breakfast, we visited a local Suzuki dealer and they fixed the seat issue quickly and free of charge!  We went and visited a few spots in the local national park, then explored the cute downtown area.  Next we stopped and had a beer at a local craft brewery, Wilson Brewing Company,  before heading back to camp to make dinner.

Natural Bridge in Albany.
Sara on the rocky shoreline.

From Albany it was another 5 hour drive to Perth (the capital of Western Australia), with a stop at another national park, Porongurup National Park, along the way for nice long hike to a neat viewpoint on top of some rocks.

“Granite Skywalk” to the viewpoint.
Sara and a big rock.

We spent 3 nights in Perth where we explored the town a bit, took in a Women’s Australian Rules Football match at the fancy new stadium, and checked out a few craft breweries, Bright Tank Brewing Co and Blasta Brewing Company, both highly recommended if you find yourself in Perth.

Selfie at the footy
On the river in Perth

After Perth we were off to Jurien Bay – only about 3 hours away.  On there way there we stopped at a few national parks.  First, one that had koalas.

Koala doing its thing.

Next, one that had the pinnacles – they were quite amazing.

Yes, it was that yellow.

Unfortunately, this is where the flies really begin for us.  We thought they were annoying along the Nullabor, but we had no idea. When I say flies, there are a lot of them and they buzz your ears and nose and are really annoying. More on that later.

In Jurien Bay we camped at a caravan park near the beach.  We got set up quickly as we have gotten quite good by now at setting up camp. That night the winds came and made sleeping nearly impossible.  The wind was gusting up to 65kph (40mph) at times shaking the tent and just generally making a lot of noise.  Quite annoying.

We were staying two nights in Jurien bay, so the next day we explored a nearby town, then spend some much needed time on the beach relaxing and swimming in the ocean. It was very hot that day and didn’t cool down that much, which made sleeping a challenge again.

Beach time! (Luckily minimal flies on the beach, go figure)

Next stop, Kalbarri, about 4 hours away.  On the way, we stopped at a pink lake that was actually pink.

Pink lake!

We hooked up the chromecast and caught up on some new Brooklyn Nine-Nine episodes and got some much needed sleep in a hotel after two nights very poor sleep in Jurien Bay.

After a robust sleep, we were off to Carnarvon, 4 and a half hours up the coast. On the way out of town, we stopped at a few coastal spots of the local national park.

Red Bluff near Kalbarri

We planned to stop at some of the cool-sounding inland gorges of this park, only to find out it was closed for the week for feral goat eradication – I did not anticipate that as a reason for a park closure.  It was a bit rainy, and this seemed to bring all the roos out of the bush and into the road.  I had to stop and honk at a lot of roos as they didn’t bound off when the heard me coming.

Stupid roo, get out of the way!

I now understand why there are so many dead kangaroos on the side of the road, as the big trucks don’t stop, they just mow them down.

Back to the flies, for anyone doubting how bad they are, here’s a taste:

Flies

Well, now we are only two stops away from being caught up – that’ll have to be in the next installment!

2019 Wrap Up

Oof, the blog posts are few and far between lately. We’re going to try to remedy that on our upcoming drive around Australia over the next 2+ months.  Also, we’ll try to post to Instagram more on that trip, so if you aren’t following us, you should ( @handelblog )

Here’s what we’ve been up to since our last post:

Maleny: We’d been meaning to explore the Sunshine coast “hinterland” for a while and we had heard great things about a small town called Maleny, so we decided to spend a weekend up there exploring. We booked a cute little stand-alone cabin in that backed up to a creek that was also close to town.  We had dinner and drinks at the local brewery the first night and at the local pub on the second night. In between all that we went on a few bushwalks in Kondalilla National park (Kondalilla Falls and Baroon Lookout) and generally explored the town.

Rock pool at the top of Kondalilla falls.
Random waterfall

Mom: Sadly, my mom passed away unexpectedly in July. Sara and I made a last minute trip to California, my brother came down from Tahoe and my cousin flew out from Minneapolis. Together we managed to take care of everything that needed to be done. One of my mom’s friends from the senior community she lived in helped us organize a small memorial service and many of her friends from the community and my mom’s cousin, Eileen, contributed to it. We went with Jeff back up to Tahoe to bring stuff we kept and were able to enjoy a nice hike to the lake.

Photos from my mom’s memorial service
Photos from my mom’s memorial service
Lake Tahoe

Sydney: Sara managed to get off the work project in Brisbane that she wasn’t enjoying, but unfortunately got staffed on a series of projects based in Canberra and Sydney and had to do a lot of travel and spend a good deal of time down in Sydney. Since I mostly work from home, I was able to join her a few times and we explored a bit more of Sydney together. It gave us a chance to get a fancy 16th anniversary dinner at Sagra in Sydney. We went to a few craft breweries (Sauce, Stockade and Batch) and on long hike around the North Heads – which are the headlands to the north of the entrance to the Sydney Harbour from the Pacific Ocean. There are great views back to the city.

City views

Summer’s Wedding: My cousin Summer was getting married in Iowa in September, so it was back on a plane for another quick trip to the US.  Brisbane->Sydney->Los Angeles->Chicago where we met up with my brother for the 4 hour drive to northeast Iowa. The wedding was on my uncle’s farm (where my dad grew up) and it was fun to catch up with the entire Handel side of the family.  5 days later we were back on a plane to Australia!

The happy couple with the friendly cows
Dad and Mary
Brothers Jeff and Nick
Obligatory cornie (corn selfie)

Australia Trip Prep: As mentioned above, we are planning on doing a 2+ month drive around Australia to explore a bit.  To further this goal, we sold the trusty Yaris and invested in a compact 4×4 vehicle – a Suzuki Grand Vitara.  This will enable us to go off the beaten path when on our adventure and we’ve always wanted to drive on beach! We took a beach driving course to learn how to correctly drive on the beach and gain confidence doing that and learn how to get ourselves “unbogged” if we find ourselves stuck.  Shortly after that training, we took a drive down to northern NSW where there was a 30km long stretch of beach we could drive.  Luckily we took that course, because in the end, getting up over the dunes to get off the beach proved a bit difficult and we got stuck (and unstuck) twice! I learned that speed it your best friend when driving uphill in the sand.

Car as wind block
Driving on sand

Quit jobs: In order enable a long visit back to the US and this upcoming trip around Australia – we decided to quit our jobs.  Our last day was November 14!  Hard to believe it’s been 2+ months already.  So far so good on that front!

Melbourne Visit: Now jobless, we figured we should go down and visit our friends in Melbourne for a long weekend.  We had a good time catching up with everyone and even got some randomly good weather. Our hosts (Dorota and Wojciech) pampered us as usual and I got to rile up their dogs.

Lucie and Sara
Me, Ashlee, Dorota and Wojciech

USA for Thanksgiving / Christmas: We sure packed a lot into our 6 week visit back to the US this time. We met up with Sara’s aunt and cousins in Charlotte, NC for Thanksgiving.  Next we flew to Austin to spend a bit of time with my family and celebrate my sister’s 21st birthday.  Then we drove from Austin to New Orleans and spent a few nights exploring the Big Easy.  From there it was a long drive to Greenville, SC to stay a few nights with our friend Mike. We spent one of those nights up in Asheville, NC where we did a brewery tour of Sierra Nevada and ate a lot of good food.  Off to Irvington, VA for a quick visit with the Bralys after that.

Backyard football in Charlotte
“Painting with a Twist” for Natasha’s 21st.
Hanging with Mike at the Sierra Nevada brewery

We wound up back in Maryland about a week before Christmas and spent some time relaxing and catching up with local friends and celebrating Christmas with Sara’s family.

Sara and Becky
Annual Christmas photo

After Christmas we flew to Seattle where my aunt and uncle (my mom’s brother) were hosting a get together for that side of the family. The rented gorgeous house on Whidbey island and we got to hang out with them, my cousins and my brother for 3 nights.  Much like Melbourne, we lucked out with some atypical weather for that time of year and managed to get a really nice hike in.

Cousins
Great long hike

After returning to Sara’s mom’s in Maryland, we had a week to relax before heading back to Australia.

Moving Forward: Now we’re back in Australia prepping for our adventure which will begin in 10 days time on the 28th.  On Australia day (26th) we will become Australian Citizens!