Category Archives: Travel

Hello Hobart

With Cradle Mountain conquered, we set off for our next destination – the capital city of Tasmania, Hobart, a mere 243 clicks away.

There where multiple route options of similar length, so we opted to take the one that took us past the “Great Lake”. Indeed, it was a pretty big lake and the road (gravel at points) took us around it.

GreatLake

After we put the lake behind us, we stopped in a town called Bothell for lunch.  Bothell is home to Australia’s oldest golf course (1822!) and Lonely Planet stated that “worthy eating options are thin on the ground” – but we managed to find a lovely cafe that had fresh pies (of the meat variety) for lunch.  Yum! Sufficiently full, we continued on to Hobart and arrived around 3pm.  After checking into the hotel, we explored the CBD area and found some burgers for dinner.  Still sufficiently wiped out from our hike the previous day, we settled into the hotel room for a few beers and some BBL cricket.

The next morning (Christmas eve) – we headed down to the docks to board the ferry that takes you to MONA – the Museum of Old and New Art.  The ferry was well appointed with a cafe and many different seating options.  Being the mature adult I am, I immediately headed for the sheep.

Whoa
Easy there fella

We settled in for short 30 minute ride to the museum.   Or is it a Bond villain’s lair?

I fully expected Odd Job or Jaws to meet us at the pier
I fully expected Odd Job or Jaws to meet us at the pier

Sticking to its villain lair reputation, you enter the museum and immediately head down 4 stories on a spiral staircase to start your tour.  The museum lived up to its name having both old and new art.  I can’t say I know much about art, but I found most things in the museum interesting.  There was a big exhibit by Gilbert & George, which we saw first.

Art1

We toured around and took everything in.  I particularly liked the chubby Porsche.

Art2

It took a few hours to wind our way back to the surface.  We saw a bit of “normal” art and heaps of “not-so-normal” art – for instance a machine that has scheduled feedings and poopings.  Once we were done, we jumped on the ferry to head back to Hobart.

Escaping unscathed
Escaping unscathed

That evening (after doing some legwork to figure out what would be open) – we headed out for a nice steak dinner in Salamanca Place – a neighborhood in Hobart famous for its Saturday market.  After dinner, we set out to find the Christmas tree we had read about in the paper.  The locals were upset that $35,000 was spent on this:

ChristmasTree

I felt more like I should be “airing my grievances” and participating in “feats of strength” near this group of Festivus poles arranged carefully into a tree.  I tend to agree with the citizens of Hobart that this is a debacle of a Christmas tree.  We grabbed a few good beers at a bar nearby and drank outside enjoying the last of the day’s light at 9pm.

Christmas morning we decided to head up to Mt Wellington, which overlooks Hobart.  There were quite a few others with the same idea, but still plenty of room for us.

We drove to the top of this mountain
We drove to the top of this mountain

Great views were abundant and we took them all in, along with a strong breeze.

Hobart from above
Hobart from above

It was a cracker of a day, with a top of 35 Celsius (do the math if you want to know 9/5C + 32 = F).  So, we headed to the beach and even went all the way into the fairly frigid water.  No sharks or crocodiles were seen.

Beach

After enjoying the sun an water for a bit, we headed back to the hotel.  Then we found a wonderful Indian restaurant for Christmas dinner.

A cool change swept through on Christmas night and we awoke on Boxing Day to a rainy 18C day.  We had another drive in front of us so we had made a pact to do the Hobart parkrun in the morning – a free, timed 5K.  It was rainy and miserable, but it made us get out and run on a day we were otherwise destined (by weather and our drive) to do very little activity.

Nice day for a run
Nice day for a run

After a nice warm shower, we packed up the Yaris and pointed it north towards St Helens.

Ahoy Tassie

Many companies shutdown completely over Christmas in Australia. When I found out my company would be closed from 21 December through 3 January, Jon and I started planning a trip. We’d heard nothing but positive things about Tasmania so that became our focus. After some research, Jon proposed we take the ferry over because we could bring ourselves and our car for less than it would cost to fly and rent a car. It sounded like a great idea at the time.Ferry

The trip did not get off to a smooth start when we went to drive to the ferry only to find ourselves stuck in a long line of traffic to get to the port. According to the rules, we needed to be checked in at 8:15 am, but we were still barely moving forward at 8:15. Luckily (sort of), the boat did not leave without us. We settled in for our 9+ hour cruise over to Tassie. I found much of the trip nauseating and spent lots of time head down, eyes closed, trying to get through the rough parts. Luckily, I felt much better toward the end of the trip
and was able to enjoy our arrival.

We drove off the ship around 7 pm and headed to Sheffield, our first destination, arriving just before 8 pm. It seemed like a good time to get settled in and then head out for dinner. It stays light until after 9 pm and 8 pm doesn’t seem all that late anyway, but when we got
to the hotel, the manager advised that we get dinner straight away before everything closed imminently. Sheesh. We managed to get some really good Chinese take away and then got settled in at the hotel.

The next day we headed to Cradle Mountain, planning to hike to the summit. After some initial confusion, we caught a bus to the start of the hike.

Bus Pass

We thought it would be best if we could drive straight to the car park where the hike starts, but there is a weird metering system that lets cars into the park in a seemingly random fashion. We were so glad we ended up catching the bus though because the road past
the metering gate is basically one lane with some areas for moving over perilously if a car or bus happens along going the other way.

The hike starts at Dove Lake with a lovely path around the lake. Dove Lake

About half way around, we turned off to start the upward ascent and kept going up and going up further with a few reprieves. The path started to get a bit more treacherous and I started to get a bit (read: a lot!) more anxious as we got closer to the summit. After I tried to scramble up a rock the length of me, I decided I’d had enough and told Jon to go on to the summit without me.

 

Cradle Mountain Trail Cradle Mountain trail Cradle MountainCradle Mountain Views

There were plenty of people on the trail so it seemed safe enough to split up for just a bit. Jon, being the overachiever that he is, made it to the summit and back in just a bit more time than it took me to get back to a good sitting rock area. He reported that it only got worse the rest of the way so I’d made a good decision to stop when I did. Phew. I really enjoyed vast majority of the hike and the views throughout were really amazing.

Cradle Mountain Views Cradle Mountain Views

That night we checked out the Sheffield Hotel and indulged in some extra healthy parmas. In Australia, a common bar food is chicken parmesan. BUT it isn’t the chicken parm Americans are used to with red sauce and cheese and pasta on the side. It comes in all sorts of varieties and it is always served with chips (fries). Jon’s parma had bacon, egg, cheese, and bbq sauce. Mine was topped with prawns and scallops in a cream sauce. Yum. The restaurant had a salad bar too… that’s right a salad bar! I haven’t seen a salad bar in a restaurant in ages, but someone did warn me if the perception is that Australia is generally 10 – 20 years behind the US then Tassie is at least 30 years behind.

Our evening entertainment for the rest of the trip was determined that night as we caught the Big Bash League on TV. It’s a format of cricket called T-20 (the first T stands for 20) which turns the game into something that lasts a few hours with lots of action. Some Aussies seem to like it, but lots of people tsk tsk that isn’t not the way the game is meant to be. I think it’s great, but I suspect that’s because it’s being Americanized.

Stay tuned for more on Tassie next time when we head to Hobart…