Monthly Archives: August 2015

Handel Holiday (part 3 of ?)

After a not-so-restorative night of sleep in our fabulous shipping container accommodation,  we awoke before dawn to take a cruise on the Yellow Water Billabong. A bus picked us up and took us to the docks where we received a stern lecture on not leaning over the side of the boat in the least bit because crocos can jump quite high. Yikes.

It was an eerie scene to start the day as a mixture of mist and smoke floated just above the water. Our tour guide expertly navigated the river to get us in position to view the sunrise. Sunrise

When the sun rose above the horizon, our tour guide wasted no time moving along. She told us to keep our eyes pealed for kingfishers and brolgas, which I later learned were kinds of birds. She mentioned several other things that I chose to assume were also some kind of bird. Jon and I weren’t sure if we were alone in only knowing a few types of birds so we just pretended to understand.

Pelican
The arrival of a boat full of gawking tourists couldn’t tear this pelican away from its reflection.
KingFisher
We learned this is a Kingfisher, we loved the UVA color scheme – Wahoowa!

We knew that Kakadu is a major tourist attraction, drawing as many or more visitors as the population of the whole Northern Territories (which is only about 250K, but still…). Somehow we either didn’t know or didn’t remember that Mick Dundee first introduced us and much of the rest of the world to Kakadu and the crocos that inhabit it. (Thankfully, Netfix has both Crocodile Dundee I and II readily available so we watched them immediately when we got back to Melbourne.) Lest you forget that crocos abound, there are helpful signs to remind you in all manner of places that don’t look like anything, much less a water dwelling creature, could live.

NoCroc2

In the wet season, Kakadu floods extensively and the crocos spread out across the park, but during the dry (May – October) they congregate in the main waterways such as the Yellow Water where you would have to try not to see them. They are sneaky though and can disappear right back into the river  faster than you blink which was enough for me to keep a larger than necessary distance from any and all natural waterways.

NoCroc1
Frankly, this felt a little too close for comfort!

Croc2 Croc3Croc4

Croc1

Snake
Fortunately, this is the one and only snake we saw on our trip.

Our tour wrapped up at a normal waking hour so we had the whole day ahead of us. We decided to check out the visitor centers and do a couple of short bushwalks. I am a sucker for tourist merchandise and couldn’t wait to see what the visitor centers had to offer only to find out that it was somewhere between nothing and very little. Oh well. It’s hard to decide if I am more disappointed in the lack of nonsense to spend money on or heartened that there is still something that isn’t being over-merchandised. After that it was on to Jabiru.

Jon pointed out that Jabiru was the name of one of the birds that our tour guide had pointed out repeatedly which was a surprise to me. I didn’t put two and two together because the tour guide pronounced it Jab-a-roo and I thought it was Jab-ear-ew. Whoops.

Jon and I arrived at our lodging for the night and decided to take a walk to check out the town that, per Lonely Planet, was surprisingly large given the remote location about 3 hours from anything else. We enjoyed some much needed sandwiches at a German bakery, picked up a few items at the grocery/kmart-ish store combo. We realized it was a good thing we ate because the bakery was one of only two places open for lunch. At our hotel, we asked for restaurant recommendations for dinner and found out that we had exactly one option. Wow. What a huge town. What surprised me is that so many people, approx. 1000, can live there with so few services! It is definitely not going on my list of places I could see myself living.

Handel Holiday (part 2 of ?)

Sara and I love to leave you wanting more, so here you go, part 2 of …

After a smooth ID-less flight, we arrived in Darwin.  Since they limit your carry on bag weight to 7kg (15lbs) we both had to check bags.  The bags were quick to get to the carousel, and Avis gave us the keys to our car and we were on our way.

The next few towns we were going to didn’t have much in the way of services, so on the way out of town we stopped at a grocery store to get supplies for a few days.  We got lunch at Subway and Sara was shocked they didn’t have vinegar as a topping.  I was sad there was no yellow mustard.

Our destination was Batchelor, NT – only about 100km away.  We were quickly out of Darwin and in a rural area.  Then we began to see the “Road Trains” on the 2 lane highway. These are as terrifying in person as they would seem to be.  Just a normal 18 wheeler with up to 3 EXTRA trailers.   Additionally, the speed limit once we got out of town was 130KPH (80.78 mph!).

We checked into the Rum Jungle Bungalows and got some advice from the owner regarding what our plan should be for the afternoon.  She suggested checking out the magnetic termite mounds and Florence Falls.  So off we went.

First stop, magnetic termite mounds.  These are very interesting because the termites align them with the magnetic field in order to minimize the amount of sun it receives every day.  Some mean scientists once altered the magnetic field around one and the termites duly built their mound in the “wrong” direction.  Jerks.

Magnetic termite mount
Magnetic termite mound

The other type of termite mound is made by the cathedral termite.  These mounds are all over the Northern Territories and come in all sorts of sizes.

Jon for scale
Jon for scale
Sara size mound
Sara size mound

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After investigating the mounds, we headed towards the Florence falls, with the promise of a refreshing croc-free dip. It did not disappoint, the hardest part was figuring out how to get in a rock pool without concussing ourselves.

No Crocs!
No Crocs!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We then headed back to the bungalow.  We had a few drinks and then headed out for the short walk to the local tavern.  We were told to bring a torch (flashlight) because cane toads and snakes are nocturnal.  Luckily we saw neither.  We did stop a bit to look up at the absurd number of stars we could see.  Amazing.  We could even see that “star dust” you only normally see in long exposure photos.

We woke up early (Happy Anniversary!) the next morning to beat the Darwin day-tripping “crowds” to some of the Litchfield attractions.  First, we went to Walker Creek, which is a creek with a series of 7 pools.

Our Pool
Our Pool
Another pool
Another pool
Trail
Trail
Don't mess with him and he won't mess with you.
Don’t mess with him and he won’t mess with you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We saw <10 people on this hike.  3 were leaving their campground and 4 were still at their campground.   Sara was pretty excited that I only rolled my ankle 3 times and never bad enough to need to be carried.

Next we headed to Wangi falls, did a quick loop hike and took a dip in the croc-free* (*may include freshwater crocs) pool.  We had some burgers at the cafe there and headed off to the Tabletop Swamp.  It was swamp like.

It was nearing 2pm, which was our get out of town time.  In the outback, car insurance doesn’t cover single vehicle accidents at night, because that is when the ‘roos come out and jump into your car.  We had a 4 hour drive ahead of us, so we had to get a move on.  Luckily we had brought my iPod to musically entertain us (I have 7 Bon Jovi albums!).  Unfortunately, for some reason, the car stereo would only play albums in alphabetical order, which is shockingly maddening.

We arrived in Cooinda and had a few beers by the pool.  Then we sampled the local cuisine for dinner – me: Kangaroo, Sara: Barramundi.

We then retired to our room for the night.  How many lucky ladies get to sleep in a partitioned shipping container the night of their 12th anniversary?

Luxury
Luxury

That’s it for me, you’ve all been great, I’m outta here.