Vietnam

Now that we’ve finished our tour of Laos, returned to Australia via Thailand, and flown to America, perhaps it is now time for me to write my post about our time in Vietnam? Seems reasonable.

Vietnam was the most complicated “visa” we had to get. Even with paying for a “visa approval letter” (which was the preferred route compared to mailing our passports to the Vietnam embassy in Australia before our trip) – on arrival in Ho Chi Minh City we presented our letter, photos and application and then waited patiently for 45 minutes or so to pay $25 for our visa and get our passports back. Then we walked over to the domestic terminal for our connecting flight.

One thing we quickly noticed about plane travel in Vietnam is that their airports do not have enough gates, which leads to taking a bus to the plane from the terminal.  This is very annoying.  Especially when the bus goes this far:

Our bus: far left, Our plane: right. Distance: not far

Our first stop in Vietnam was Danang. We chose this location to have some nice relaxing beach time between our temple and city touring.  It did not disappoint.  We had sunny hot days and miles of empty beaches.

Beachy
South China Sea selfie from our balcony

Well, the beaches were empty during what I’d call regular beach times.  Before 8am and after 4pm, it was an entirely different story, as seen below:

Left: noon, Right: 6pm

It took a while to get used to the constant honking of horns while walking around and also to figure out how to cross streets.  The solution was to just start crossing when vaguely clear and the motorbikes and cars will sort of veer around you.  Very terrifying.

Sara mentioned our food challenges when traveling and this was a bit amplified in Danang.  It is not a major international tourist location as far as we could tell.  Plenty of Vietnamese tourists though.  They sold a lot of seafood that was presented in buckets still alive and given our lack of language skills we were not entirely certain what we’d get if we attempted to order.  Also, nearly every restaurant on our beach front street was exactly the same.  Additionally, google maps and the internet in general were not a great help.  But hey, walking around looking for food, sometimes you find a dragon bridge.

Dragon Bridge!

We did a day trip to Hoi An, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It’s an old timey city that was not bombed during the war, so a lot of buildings remain from when it was a major trading port for all manors of countries.

Hoi An

Next stop was Cat Ba island.  This was our most challenging transfer.  From Danang it involved: Taxi, Plane, Uber, Bus, Bus, Boat, Bus and about 7 hours.  And yes, we took an Uber in Vietnam – we were very excited it was available since we’d read a lot about dodgy taxis and various scams in Vietnam.  With traffic, we were in the Uber for over an hour and the total came to about $17 for the 20 or so miles. Woo.

Once we arrived we were treated to a beautiful view from our hotel room.

Cat Ba View

Our main reason for going to Cat Ba was to do a tour of Halong / Lan Ha bay.  It did not disappoint.  The boat was quite dodgy, but the views were incredible (well, it could have been sunnier).

Halong Bay
Halong Bay
That’s my boat (in the foreground)

After Cat Ba, we were off to Hanoi for two nights.  We did our trip back to the city in the reverse of the first one – Bus, Boat, Bus, Bus, Uber.  Our time in Hanoi was spent eating good food and walking all over the city.

Alley in Hanoi
Ho Chi Minh mausoleum

Vietnam was great.  Upon reflection, it was surprisingly the cheapest place we were as well.  Beers were only 12,000 dongs.  While that may sound *really* expensive, the exchange rate was about 22,000:1.

Observations

So far we’ve been to Bangkok, Thailand (major city), Siem Reap, Cambodia (tourist mecca) and Hoi An, Danang and Hanoi, Vietnam (tourist mecca, small city, major city). I certainly can’t say I’ve seen it all and know everything, but I have a few observations to share anyway.

Driving in South East Asia is bananas

–  In Bangkok,  there is a mix of all manner of vehicles including tuk tuks which really have no business being a mode of transport in a major city, but there they are, readily available for you to take and wish you hadn’t as you suck in fumes from all the other bigger vehicles that could roll right over your tuk tuk at any time.

– In Siem Reap, I am pretty sure there are no laws, but everyone manages to get around somehow. Tuk tuks abound there as well, but they fit right in with the otherwise mostly motorbike traffic.

– In  Vietnam, well, Vietnam is a special case. Everyone seems to drive by echo location, constantly beeping their horn to let whoever is nearby know they are there. I thought this might be limited to the smaller towns, but we’re in Hanoi and it’s the same thing here. It is not pleasant. The worst of it was when we paid to walk around the “old town” area of Hoi An which had signs everywhere saying pedestrian traffic only. At first, it was quite pleasant with no scooters buzzing by and beeping every three seconds, but, an unadvertised rule allows motor traffic through from 11 am to 3 pm every day. Sigh.

As seen in Hoi An – ironically?

Eating in foreign countries is hard work

– We’ve had breakfast included in most of our hotels so far so that has been the least challenging meal of the day.

– We managed lunch okay in Bangkok and Siem Reap, but in Danang we ran into big challenges. We went to the beach and rented lounge chairs for $2 each and settled in to relax all day. When we started to get hungry, I agreed to venture out to find food and bring it back. Unfortunately, it seemed like almost no options existed for lunch. The closest, seemingly obvious option was to go to one of the million of what seem like the exact same seafood restaurant in a row so I tried that and failed miserably. I ended up ordering two (small) sausages and two beers (reward for my foraging failure) from a beach stand which I could have done at the very start.

Not the worst spot to starve

– We’ve had some proud moments just by being able to get dinner. Jon and I managed to get dinner at one of the million seafood restaurants in Danang. Then again, they gave us quail eggs and crackers at the start which we assumed were free as we didn’t order them, but then had to pay for, making us feel a bit rube-ish. Of course, our whole dinner, including shrimp for both of us and 4 beers, was all less than $10 so I should probably get over it.  We also had our first bún chả experience last night which I can’t believe isn’t a thing in America or Australia (or maybe it is?? it should be).

“Free” Quail Eggs

People are mostly good

– I continue to debate this in my head, but I think people are mostly good. I read so much about scams and thieves and so on before this trip that I made myself a bit nervous. Asia is the furthest physical place I’ve traveled out of my comfort zone so I didn’t really need to make myself any more anxious before getting there. Anyway, I am happy to report that while we’ve had people tell us the Grand Palace was closed in Thailand and try to get us to take dodgy taxis to the point where I thought Jon’s name was Tuk Tuk, none of them has actually been mean or (too) pushy and all of them took no for an answer. Of course, there was an American guy at our hotel in Danang who bought a girl a drink and told her she couldn’t say no and who I wanted to punch in the face, but that’s a random tangent and thus the debate in my head rages on.